Yet again, I have tasted a wine, made from the grape known for its stellar standing in Burgundy that has really forced the re-occurrence of a haunting question for me. The grape we know; Pinot Noir. The query raised; Old World (Burgundy) vs. New, in this case (Oregon, USA).
There is a tendency among New World USA Winemakers to jettison from one operation to the next. A sweeping generalization, admittedly, but definitely the case if and when we make the comparison to French winemakers. This wanderlust is perhaps not a remarkable character trait in winemaking as a vocation. In France, Vineyards are owned by families and the Chateau’s within are prideful homes. Winemakers boast a considerable more lengthy tenure across the pond, at their respective (dare I say), “jobs”. In Burgundy, grapes and vineyards are traced back 2,000 or more years, and there are those famous stories of the Roman Empire’s collapse, and the Church’s gobbling of Vineyards, right down the highway North to South through Burgundy. With that same tenure and history, comes a perceived (and I feel, actual) benefit to Old World wines in the form of knowing which grapes grow best in these areas, and further, which of these areas will produce the highest quality therein. So, the challenge placed on these newer regions is apparent: a substantial gap in time, ergo some serious catching up to do.
Enter in to the tragedy (or comedy) the variable I’ll call “winemaker influence”. New World Wine makers and vineyards rely on technology and methods to ensure that the grapes, which have not yet wholly proved themselves as inherently successful to that specific region, will produce a solid and consistently quaffable product. Now I must be fair, and put my ancestry (and general preference for French Wine) aside and diplomatically include the fact that with Old World Chateaus and the producers within, there is a tendency to fall complacent with their technique. You know that tacky phrase: “if it isn’t broke why fix it”. In France, you may get some of that both in the glass, as well as in the attitude of the winemaker. However, we do know that a wider market and some competition keeps the more progressive-minded “old guard” on their toes and sometimes the result is a wonderful combination of history and proven aptitude with open-minded methodology and experimentation. So in all of this, it is an amazingly refreshing experience, and one that births dramatic, and truth-seeking judgments (for me); when a New World Wine stands up to its proven Old World, shadow-creating title holder.
I recently had the pleasure of listening to a New World wine maker explain to me that the new irrigation techniques, the new oak barrels used for aging, the harvesting calculation philosophy (and timing), along with certain “new” natural additives used in the making of New World wines; are some of the most famously guarded secrets among winemakers. He romantically described them to me like a scene from a James Bond movie. Spies, rumors, binoculars, faux employees, investigations—the whole lot!
As if the craft itself isn’t enough to impress us—then there is suspense. Let’s just say that there is plenty to enjoy from several New World wines; o.k. we knew as much. For me, it is rare to find a New World “burgundy clone” that stands up to the top dogs of the Cote d’Or or Nuits; but just that occurrence recently took place.
OK, OK, so the contender responsible for these questions raised, for me, should be introduced……
Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir (Carlton, Oregon), vintage 2007, $55
I wont bore you with my version of tasting notes….but I was floored. A definite exercise and lesson in Pinot-Nuance, and just “over the top” vibrancy, balance with a stunning finish. A showstopper. Two days prior, I had the pleasure of drinking a Volnay from a reputable producer, and this Pinot from Carlton left the Volnay in its turbulent wake. A New World Pinot Noir that matches technology with a vision. I have heard it said that “a vision without execution is only a daydream”---well this was a vision executed. I cannot testify to how much espionage was involved in the making of this gem—but some questions are better left unanswered!
Happy Sipping.
-Kevin
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