Chenin Blanc and Pickup Trucks in South Africa

There is a term, “Bakkie” (pronounced “Bucky”) among South Africans, especially in the southwest portion of the country, for what we know as a pickup truck. Around the Southwest Region of the country, (South Africa’s “wine country”), many of these Bakkie’s can be seen traveling in and out of the various wineries that are found in Walker Bay, Stellanbosch and Constantia, to name just a few. In one of those Bakkies you may find Ken Forrester, a prime winemaker, whose historic farm (winery) sits just outside of Stellanbosch.

Ken Forrester is a proponent, grower and avid fan of one South Africa’s most widely planted varietals, Chenin Blanc. It is amusingly true, despite the rhythmically repetitious and recent “great-press” surrounding South African Cabernet Sauvignons, Pinotage, and Merlot, that 85% of the grapes grown in South Africa produce white wines. For now we’ll put Mr. Forrester aside, on the pedestal for which he belongs.

Chenin Blanc is a grape that produces a wide variety of stylistically unique wines. It would be commonplace to taste four different Chenin Blanc’s side by side to only be left scratching your head in confusion. Those hypothetical four could possibly capture and span the spectrum of; dry, off-dry, even demi-sec, sparkling and downright dessert worthy. Chenin Blanc in the Loire, (Vouvray) is as broadly varied as in South Africa, but generally yields a more acidic, green apple variation when compared. South African Chenin Blanc or “Steen” as the countries population refers to it, is generally a bit more opulent with exhibitions of honey-melon, peaches, and lightly buttered toast. Interestingly more still, Chenin Blanc has overtaken Beaujolais as the calendar years first production of noteworthy wine. “Early Chenin” Vintage Bottling as it is referred, can hit the shelves as early as May or June.

I wonder if the Dutch were aware of the enormous possibility and eminence that the land and its terroir, would offer to future Chenin Blanc growers, when they settled in South Africa’s Cape Town region during the mid- 17^th century? Perhaps not. It is this later than most start to South Africas wine scene emergence that gives it its quirky, widespread wine world profile and panache. In the chronological and wine-historical grand scheme, I think South Africa’s wine region resembles the young, budding actor or actress. You know; plenty of talent and even some worthy experience under the belt, versatile by default and necessity, but very, very good nonetheless.

I have been asked from time to time: “if your days on earth were limited, which of the many possible wines and or varietals would you surround yourself with for those last breathing days”?? These hypothetical conversations among wine friends while fun, unfortunately almost always contain caveats such as “you can only choose one” –or- “you can’t change your mind after you decide”. When I am faced with this, my “go to” answer is generally France’s Burgundy…..ahh the sumptuousness of Burgundian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, so on ad so forth. However- when I do settle back and revisit wines such as Chenin Blanc from South Africa, I am reminded that those same hypothetical questions can be even more difficult than at first glance. Once and awhile taking a step back and rediscovering grapes like Chenin Blanc is a good thing. Whether its top notch Vouvray from the Loire, or Steen from Strellanbosch, this is truly a noble grape that is too often forgotten on your everyday clubs wine list. This coming from a true lover of all things Burgundy; I test thee to re-learn and explore your ABC’s! That is Anything But Chardonnay. Even if only for a little time. Having done so may make retuning to those more well known and more frequented roads, that much more agreeable.

Worthy Chenin Blanc matches high acidity with decent viscosity. Ripe quince and melon meet crisp tartness and ‘under the radar’ length. It would be difficult to find a particular wine that meets food with more grace and a more open mind to those more dangerous pairings like the ginger in Asian cuisine, or those impossible vinaigrettes. South African Chenin Blanc, made by the likes of Mr. Forrester can be expensive, but are definitely affordable on the whole. Bring a taste to your especially devoted Chardonnay or even Sauvignon Blanc drinker and see just what occurs. My guess is that they will be, even if only for the interim, converted.

www.kenforresterwines.com