A Wine Shop Worth a Diversion

Many of us grow tired of walking into liquor stores and "wine shops" only to find the same old familiar wine labels with nothing to peak our interest or expand our knowledge base.

About two years ago, I discovered a wonderful gem of a store in New Haven, CT called the Wine Thief. (I grew up in the area and still have family in the area, so I find myself in the area several times per year.) There are two locations, but the one I visit is at 181 Crown Street, less than 5 minutes off of I95.

The first time I stepped into the store, I was astounded by how little of their inventory I was familiar with. They work with a number of smaller importers and producers to provide an exceptional selection from both new and old world regions. What I truly enjoy as well, is their broad selection of wines for $15 an under. Often, I will try to leave with a mixed case of wine for about $150. (The typical 10% discount on a full case applies.)

The staff is exceedingly knowledgeable and helpful, often pointing out new favorites or working from an explanation of my own likes and dis-likes relating to wine styles or regions. What follows is a few weeks of new discoveries as I open and share the wines with family and friends.

Although their website does little to elaborate on breath of the shop and their inventory, check them out at:www.thewinethief.com. If you are ever in New Haven, you don't want to miss the opportunity to stop. Even if you just happen to be driving through on I95, it is a very brief diversion you won't regret taking.

Cheers,
Bill Roman

Spotlight on Landmark Vineyards, Sonoma County

Once in awhile we are lucky enough to stumble upon a stimulating producer of fine wine who balances quality and ambitious winemaking with finesse, value and serious dexterity. I offer Eric Stern, winemaker at Sonoma County’s Landmark Vineyards for the last, memorable 15 years. Eric is an ex-pat from here on the east coast, who blends his love for music, cooking and traveling with his winemaking skill as gathered in California during the last 26 years. Landmark Vineyards is known for their wonderfully crafted Burgundian-style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. More recently Landmark’s Steel Plow Syrah has scored a “94” in the March 31^st issue of the Wine Spectator. The retail price listed for this bottle of wine is a staggeringly reasonable $30. For those of us on the one hand that love the balance, grace and refinement that Eric Stern and his team have achieved in their Burgundian varietals, it is also great fun to indulge in the intense, full-bodied, even hedonistic creature that is Landmark’s Steel Plow Syrah. This is a winery that exhibits serious eminence in Sonoma.

I would be remiss if I didn’t add to this wineries allure by describing to you its impressive, uber-American history. In 1838 in Illinois, a man named John Deere invented the Steel Plow. In the world of agriculture, this was a breakthrough accomplishment, with seriously profound effects on the industry. Later on, Deere’s great-grandaughter Damaris Deere Ford, relocated to the base of Sugarloaf Mountain from Windsor, California to create a “home” for Landmark Vineyards. In 1993 Mike Deere Colhoun (Damaris Deere Ford’s son) and his wife Mary decided to hire the well celebrated enologist-consultant Helen Turley to work with their newly appointed winemaker at Landmark Vineyards, Eric Stern. (That’s right, the Helen Turley.) The rest, as they say, is history. In true Burgundian style, the fruit that goes into each of these expertly made wines, is sourced and selected from differing microclimates within California’s most famed regions. Following even further in winemakings richly steeped history, Eric Stern and the entire Landmark team, pride themselves on their simple philosophy that is, “less is more”. I know I speak for many when I admit to being so inherently pleased when a winemaker allows each vintage and the fruit selected, to speak for itself without heavy handed treatment, or exploitation. At this operation, “less is more” is not cliché, but rather true value.

I have had the pleasure of meeting Mike and Mary Colhoun and they are two consummate, passionate wine professionals- and simply just “good people”. I have also had the opportunity to taste through many of their stunning Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. These wines are, in my opinion, as good as any being produced in California during this day and age. Their “Overlook” Chardonnay exhibits a truly lengthy finish and a real superb balance of acidity and sometime weighty mouth feel, vintage after vintage. In the land of Landmark Pinot Noir; noteworthy gobs of dark fruit and supple tannin exist to offer great balance and again, an unmitigated finish.

What is more refreshing than excellent winemaking squeezed inside tremendous value and backed by a quite admirable production philosophy and a familial values? Little more, I say. You are missing out if you are in Northern California and neglect to visit their majestic properties. I may add that you are missing out even further if you do not make an attempt to purchase these wines, and pass along their excellence to as many fellow wine lovers as possible. Here’s the current Landmark Vineyards Line-up:

2006 Overlook Chardonnay

2006 Damaris reserve Chardonnay

2006 Lorenzo Chardonnay

2007 Grand Detour Pinot Noir

2007 Kanzler Pinot Noir

2006 Steel Plow Syrah

www.landmarkwine.com