Scratching the Italian Surface

Occasionally, the world of wine as it pertains to Italy seems a daunting and complicated set of facts and regulations with an enormously rich history in tow; only to complicate things further. It is easy to feel under equipped and overwhelmed at the sheer volume of regions and varietals that have been such a big part of Italian culture and commerce for over 3,000 years. Montalcino or Montepulciano? Barolo or Brunello? For this recitation of sorts, we’ll keep it simple and examine the two (perhaps) most notable and familiar regions; Piedmont and Tuscany.

Nebbiolo is the king of the red grapes in the Piedmont region. Dense yet sensitive to climate changes, this grape produces rich, jammy, dark and inky “crushes”. The grape itself can be tweaked to drink fruit-forward, young and approachable—or it can be massaged to produce intense, slowly developing red wines. There are two zones that come to mind in Piedmont when we examine the Nebbiolo grape: Barbaresco and Barolo. For arguments sake, let’s just remember that Barolo is slightly the heavier of the two; with Barbaresco typically showing more refinement and elegance. I have found Barolo to be a bit more stubby, and rotund. The hills in Barbaresco are smaller and less steep, which perhaps contributes to its slight inherent differences.

Sangiovese is the king of the region we adore as Tuscany. The grape, Sangiovese itself, is known as a sturdy grower that without much help, makes some animated and dynamic wines of note. Sangiovese at its best can display prominent notes of black cherry, tea, violet, and ripe currant. The grape itself, by in large, is ready and amicable now, but can also be tended for age and length. Chianti, Chianti Classico, Chianti Ruffina and Brunello di Montalcino are all zones, and wines made predominantly with Sangiovese or a Sangiovese clone. Brunello di Montalcino would be the chief example of Sangiovese meant to age for roughly 10 years before being devoured.

In a nutshell, the two products and their regions mentioned above are a solid springboard to leap from, when investigating Italian wine further. I must admit though that I am normally not one to engage in sweeping generalizations when discussing wine, but for time and space constraints it is necessary (and yet agonizingly hard for me), to limit the discussion to only two regions, and two grapes. I would feel inattentive if I didn’t quickly “plug” the regions in Italy that are not at all related, except geographically, to the two above, but are indeed worth mention in that they also produce wonderfully remarkable wines. Fruili, Alto Adige, Umbria, Lombardy, Veneto, Campania, Abbruzzo—are all worthy of their own blog, and more importantly worthy of our attention, (and that of our wine lists as well)!
Everyone knows that Grigio stuff (it has its place, I suppose). But extend further to other Italian whites. Introduce Verdiccio, Orvieto, Soave, and Gavi to your Grigio drinkers at least, and at once.

It should also be mentioned that an interesting thing happened right after WWII in Italian winemaking. After the war, the Italian growers and wine makers rebuilt their industry and pledged to produce as much wine as possible; simply to protect their well-being, and their economy from any future “challenges”. The more the merrier was the motto and the result was an obvious emphasis placed on quantity rather than quality. This went on for some time, but around the late 60’s or 70’s Italy experienced a wine renaissance of sorts, like so many of our favorite wine regions have. Growers and wine makers started to focus on the excellence of each harvests yield, rather than just gathering and pressing. In Tuscany around this time, winemakers like Antinori secretively thumbed their noses at the governmental regulations, and started to dabble with wine on their own terms. Antinori, with great inspiration, started to blend Bordeaux style grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot) with the native Sangiovese. With this, the birth of what we know today as “Super Tuscans” was realized. Super Tuscans are fine wines; blends really, that simply don’t play by the rules as laid down by the Italian government. I cannot think of an equally amazing product brought on by such revolt as those yielding from what we know as Super Tuscans. Serendipity? Perhaps. But more than likely, true ingenuity from evaluation. This Italian spirit, innovation and commitment to superiority are what intimately brought Italy back to the map of quality and concentrated winemaking. So I urge the exploration of this wonderful landscape, and its culture—with the hopes that as always- knowledge gained is life (and wine) enjoyed. Salute and Cin Cin!

Wine Society Events at Conference

Pre-Conference Workshop
Wednesday, February 4 and Thursday, February 5, 2009
Introductory Sommelier Course – Two Day Workshop*
7:30 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.

Auction Preview for Members and Guests
Friday, February 6, 2009
Preview the entire auction and big on specially-selected lots available for Member’s only!
4:00 – 6:00 p.m.

Silent Auction
Saturday, February 7, 2009 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Sunday, February 8, 2009 7:30 a.m. to 5:45 p.m.
Bid high and bid often on great wines!

Wine Society Business Meeting*
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Learn from Dr. Su Hua Newton and taste the wines of Newton Vineyard.
1:30-4:30 p.m.

Live Auction
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Join the fast and furious fun!
6:15 – 6:45 p.m.

At-Conference Workshop
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Wine Making 101*
Participate in hands-on wine making with Sean Foster, Vice President of Production and Senior Wine Maker, Merryvale Vineyards/Starmont Winery.
12:30 – 3:30 p.m.

Wine Society Dinner*
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Enjoy this black-tie event featuring great wine, food and camaraderie.
6:30 p.m.

"Tastes & Tasting; Vivaldi vs. Christina Aguilera"

In “Wine for the Confused”, the famous British Comedian/Performer/Actor John Cleese says something to the affect of; “don’t let anyone tell you what wine you like, because we all have different tastes and those tastes should be honored". I should say to Mr. Cleese, that’s sage advice, if only more frequently heeded. We are, as a ‘wine-society’ (pun intended), inundated with images, marketing, crooked point systems and quickly changing trends in the industry. I remember when a glass of Pinot Noir was one of the toughest sells on the floor. Merlot was ever so fashionably admired (and gulped), and Cava was simply an elicitor of blank stares. Tastes change, whether or not those tastes are the product of true preference found, or perhaps more frequently, a following of the wine masses. Look no further than a vehicle like the movie “Sideways” to act as the conductor in making Pinot Noir the next Shiraz. Some fickle Californian winegrowers even uprooted Cabernet and Merlot plantings to replace them with Pinot Noir clones from scratch. The result, as we’ve seen is a less Burgundian style, and yet a more fruit forward, higher in alcohol, new world model. Yuck! Even some Sauvignon Blanc growers, at one point, aged and fermented their wine in oak—simply to appeal to the “Chardonnay drinker”. Sauvignon Blanc in oak?? My great grandfather without doubt turned over in his grave. If those aren’t lessons in reactive marketing, than I’m not sure what would be.

I have enjoyed finding that sometimes the opinion of the neophyte trainee is, as it should be, just as relevant as the so called “expert”. We all have different physiological and olfactory signatures- and from those differences can come, varied experiences or ‘tastes’ with the same exact wine. The challenge is to stick to your guns and recognize that you (and your members) have a profile of fondness and inclination that should be nurtured. It isn’t that black and white really; but I guess like any other truly subjective forms of art or language— that’s what makes it all so special to begin with. Now some of us have had those epiphanies, those times where as a beginner, intermediate, or expert; we just close our eyes and say; “Yes! That is a wine that I adore”. For me it was a 1986 Bouchard Aine & Fils Pommard. That is when I started to truly understand terroir in French Wines. Our goal as professionals, tasters, trainers, and even salespeople to a certain extent isn’t to hand-hold or arm-twist but to encourage and educate.

In tasting, it is sometimes advantageous to start with the likes of Viognier and Riesling as they can be easier to comprehend compared to a malolactic Chardonnay or a dry Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire. On the other side of the coin, try Zinfandel and Merlot, rather than heading straight to the tannic young Cabernet Sauvignon, for starters. Tasting wine is a fundamentally important act in learning about wine. And yet, nothing goes further, hand in hand with tasting, as some scholarship and research on each varietal. A fellow wine-guy and a mentor to me in many ways, often used music as a metaphor very effectively. Not all of us like classical music, but through some marginal, even accidental exposure to the likes of Wagner, Strauss and Vivaldi, we know what to expect of it, and more importantly we know when we are "hearing" an example of classical music. Conversely, I may not like hip-hop or most Californian Merlot, but I know from publicity and exposure; when I hear or taste either of the two. Further; I personally don’t own a Christina Aguilera CD, but I know a talented and respected R&B artist when I hear one. In other words, by learning about and revealing ourselves to- the inherent qualities of each of the major varietals (or genres of music)…we are able to construct a bridge between what the experts wax poetic about, and what we have right in front of us. A little reading goes a long way.

So as it is, once we’ve developed and celebrated our own tastes, it is imperative that we let those tastes change on their own from time to time—rather than be led by corporate or ‘more expert’ influences. And when someone asks us a question about wine, let us not give a quick answer, but let us listen first. And more importantly, when the time comes that we ask ourselves questions about wine, let us not lean on the crutch of the latest Robert Parker-like scripts and praise, but rather let's pick up a more objective source (like, say, Hugh Johnson), along with a glass and turn the volume to 11.

Good, Bad, or Insipid?

Ok, so perhaps all of us have, or have not tasted, turned away, or more judiciously “promptly removed from the table” a wine that one cares to classify as BAD. Ouch; shame on the club at hand for serving said wine, or is it perhaps- shame on “Mr./Mrs. Smith” who may not realize that a fine (Red) from the Cote de Nuits with considerable Brettanomyces present, should in fact smell of, well…….lets put it diplomatically, as Broadbent would, “Barnyard notes and some farm-like earth”.

A quandary is defined as “a state of perplexity or uncertainty, esp. as to what to do; a dilemma”. That’s what I think we may have all run into at some point. What to do when a member or colleague, client, or friend makes the claim that the wine being served is “bad”, “off”, “corked”, or “cooked”? Consider yourself a ‘Medicinae Doctor’ of wine and make a diagnosis! Here are a few easy and hopefully laconic red flags to consider when the quandary as defined above is faced.

First, lets not concern ourselves with screw-caps or synthetic corks; we’ll save that for another blog! Cork is a natural, and so potentially fallible, material used to seal wine. There are these little things called microorganisms that like to eat natural products like cork. Ergo, if these little microorganism critters cascade upon the cork of the wine it’s in charge of protecting; then the wine in question may also be, well….in question. In short, if you smell a wet basement, wet newspapers, or even occasionally, essence of paint thinner, you can estimate that something may be wrong. This is a pretty sure sign of a wine that has been negatively affected by a faulty cork. To be fair, I’ve only just described a wine that is “corked”. The next culprit may be oxygen.

But first, let’s back up to “first period wine 101”: we know that the four major enemies of wine are: oxygen, light, vibration, and of course, higher than ideal storing temperatures. So, with exposure to oxygen in white wines that aren’t supposed to be golden or yellowed, you may in turn find a “cooked” or yellowed color. On the palate; they will be flat and characterless….the fruit you were waiting for simply fails to appear.

Another red flag may be wine that appears sweet or as wine snobs may say, “Madeirized” when they are supposed to be dry or even off-dry instead. Basically, when you (or storage related heat) cook wine- it reduces, and becomes sweeter as certain elements burn off and abandon the true characteristics of the original wine. Here’s another dead giveaway; if the cork in the bottle is pushed slightly upward, challenging the fortitude of the foil on top- it’s probably Madeirized. It has been cooked, simply by higher than best temperatures. It will be “bad” with very infrequent exceptions.
Ok, so it turns out that the whole “cooked wine” scene was really great for fortified wines whose goal it was to make it across the Atlantic (exposed to copious sunlight) during century’s past- but for the likes of your everyday Sonoma Chardonnay- bad news, simply stated.

Ok, so now that you’ve got your MD ”en vino”, its time to hatch a plan for the always possible “bad wine” occurrence. Suffice it to say that in these types of situations, your gut should always prevail. Give your members the optimal experience, and don’t squabble over ten’s, or twenty’s. Conversely though, I do advise that you and your team birth a subtle, “cultural awareness”, day to day, in your club- that recognizes or adopts even subliminally a “buyer’s beware” mantra with regards to wine purchases. Educate both your staff and members about the nuances of certain wines, and also what to expect. It can be either unfortunate or fortunate that some of your wine lists’ more expensive slots may be inhabited by those same wines that will possess those funky, difficult, and niche nuances. Choose pro-action over reaction. Head it off at the pass with a simple dialogue; “ah, you’ve ordered the Gevrey-Chambertin…I, too, enjoy those earthy, vegetal characters in a red wine”. Know what needs to be known and then your ammunition has been gathered.

Now of course if the wine is by definition “bad” (based on your expertise and knowledge); take it back and apologize. Experts say that as many as 10% of all wines bottled, are “corked”. Remember that the next bottle of wine coming to the table is even now more sought after and desired by your members; so deliver it to your members apace. Now, if your members request- then taste, a wine and just simply “don’t like it”, but claim that …”its bad”, then you should be comfortable in your skin knowing that given the criteria above- evidence shows there is nothing wrong with the wine. Gingerly present the possibility that we’ve only just simply jettisoned into a situation of preference rather than quality. Confidence in your own and your staffs’ knowledge of wine will then certainly come to the aid. And, the underlying beauty of it all is that it’s not lip service, its wine knowledge, and trust me there is nothing more pure or gainful for us or for the membership of our respective clubs.

So with that, I totally encourage and tempt any readers to comment on what the procedure is at their respective clubs, along with any anecdotal gems, or helpful suggestions. Sticky situations like these may become easier to deal with, having shared experiences or tactics with other Club Managers. In nutshell- that’s kind of what it’s all about, I suppose. Right?

Upcoming Roundtable Discussions for the NECMA Wine Society

Look for more information on these great topics!

ONE: “Brix, Brett, Lees, and Acid”
Translating new and old winemaking techniques into tastes, and recognizable, tangible wine-terms that your members will appreciate and feel willing to explore.

TWO: “Wine Purchasing Strategies and Practices at your club”
Buying Futures, Bulk Drops, Returning Unused White Wines at the end of the season for credit, Competitive Bidding, Piggy-Back Large “drops” with other nearby clubs. Amount of inventory carried, and the age old “capital being tied up on the shelf”.

THREE: “Glass Pours at your Club”
Pricing strategies and models, number of selections you offer B.T.G., techniques for increasing the shelf life of open wine…ie vacu-vin systems pumps etc., success stories for marketing your club’s B.T.G. programs, rotation and tenure of pours on any given list, pairings with specials daily nightly?

FOUR: “Northeast (Atlantic) Wine Region”
North Fork Long Island, Rhode Island, Virginia, Vermont, Connecticut—inherent strengths and weakness of the “prime varietals” grown there, generally quite affordable, and always yielding anecdotal exchanges.

FIVE: “Wine 101” / “Wine for Dummies” Course at your club
Sharing of experiences from different clubs who have held such a wine class at their clubs, always well received, consistent results including increased wine sales, turns Cosmo drinkers into Grüner Veltiner drinkers, and a great vehicle to “move” some unique varietals and labels that are otherwise generally overlooked.

SIX: “Successful Marketing and Presentation of Sauternes, Sherry, Port, Cognac”
Tastings, education, pairings w/ desserts- cheeses, proper storage, service, stemware, aesthetic enhancements.

SEVEN: “Staff Wine Training”
Who conducts the training?, sharing of materials, is your training effective, models used, materials used/shared. Best way to “continue to train after the training”. Staff tastings, distributors/salesperson involvement?

EIGHT: “Dispelling Wines Myths”
Rieslings aren’t always sweet, nor are Rose’s, Legs don’t mean high quality, stop sniffing the cork, Old Vine and Riserva don’t unequivocally mean high quality, F&B Establishments killing (serving) whites at 38 degrees, red with meat- white with fish, sulfites & red wine & headaches.

NEW from your NECMA WS

Happy New Year everyone,
It is that time of year again when the NECMA Wine Society members are asking for your help with bottles of wine donations. These donated bottles will be used at the National Conference Wine Society silent auction. If you are not able to donate from your clubs cellars, please ask your wine purveyors to help the cause and donate a bottle.

All bottles must be collected by Wednesday, January 21st. I am attending the President's Gala on Sunday, January 18th and the NECMA January meeting at The Country Club on Wednesday, January 21th and would be happy to collect any donations at these events.

If you would like to drop off any donated bottles before that week here are the drop off locations and Managers.

Michelle Dougherty-Simek, Nashua Country Club Nashua, NH
Tricia Keating, Nashawtuc Country Club, Concord, MA
Kevin Lalumiere, Shelter Harbor Golf Club, Charlestown, RI
Kristen LaCount, The Country Club, Brookline, MA
Brent Tartamella, The Westmoor Club, Nantucket, MA
Henry Sweren, Wahconah Country Club, Dalton, MA

The 2009 NECMA Wine Society Committee is working hard to give its members value for their membership. Kevin Lalumiere is working on some round table discussions to be held before the regular monthly meetings.

Kristen LaCount will again find some great restaurants and schedule a few dine arounds. I am working on another harvest picking in September of '09 somewhere in the Burlington, VT area. Brent is doing what he does best by spreading the word and recruiting more Wine Society members.

One last note, the Boston Wine Expo has gone back to free admission for Trade visitors on Sunday, January 25th. Your club can sign up to two employees for free using the online application.

www.wine-expos.com/Wine/Boston/wine-distributors/?SHID=33123955.75425604

Have a safe and Happy New Year,
Henry Sweren, CCM and Brent Tartamella, CCM
2009 NECMA Wine Society Chairpersons

Boston Wine Festival!!

A real treat for lovers of fine dining, the annual Boston Wine Festival offers visitors the opportunity to sample a great range of specialty foods and wines. Wineries, sommeliers, chefs and restaurateurs visit the event and guide visitors through the culinary and wine experiences. Visitors can also enjoy a number of themed dinners that take place during the three-month program.

*** www.bostonwinefestival.net ***