Expect these wine trends for the new decade

Sunday, January 10, 2010 (SF Chronicle)
Expect these wine trends for the new decade
Jon Bonné


There's not much doubt about what has defined wine culture over the past
10 years. Pinot Noir's debutante moment, the surge of sommeliers, the
critter label. Riesling and pink Champagne and screwcaps. But the fact
that you're quite likely reading this on a computer screen is a giveaway.
The Internet reigns.
What about the next 10 years? The Teens (Tens? Tweens?) will be an era
without excuses. We're in a bold time for wine in America. More wine is
being consumed than ever before - nearly 3 gallons per U.S. adult in 2008,
according to data from the Beverage Information Group.
There's something else: a lot of newly minted wine drinkers who grew up
with wine-drinking parents. Wine marketing expert John Gillespie of Wine
Opinions sees a parallel with the latter round of Boomers, who propelled
wine forward in the 1970s: "Of the 70 million millennials (people born in
the late 20th century) in the United States, there are still something
like 20 million who are not yet 21."
Dizzyingly, we have choices from around the world - and that will continue
even amid a global wine glut. But en route to the era of Chinese Merlot,
here are five themes that I think will define the new decade.
1. Retailers resurgent. There was a time when your local wine merchant was
a top source of buying advice. That time is back. In part, this is the
rise of wine boutiques that curate rather than cast a wide net - whether
it's Ruby Wine or Biondivino in San Francisco, or even California Wine
Merchants in New York - which makes for a shopping experience you can't
get at a big box. Yes, scores will still sell wine and, yes, so will
Costco and Walmart.
But retailers have never been more knowledgeable or less snooty (makes a
big difference); as in-store tastings and a culture of service become more
important, wine shopping is becoming an experience to enjoy, not to rush
through. That doesn't mean online shopping is going anywhere, but its
current limitations (witness Amazon.com's abortive attempts at wine sales)
underscore that buying wine isn't like buying a flat-screen. We want to
see and touch.
2. Sustainability grows teeth. While the wine industry is virtually
choking on eco-buzzwords right now, expect to see real regulation (self-
and bureaucratic) that gives backbone to the claims. Next week the
California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance will unveil a third-party
audit system. Expect it to become something like the Green Building
Council's LEED certification for architecture: a consumer-friendly means
of benchmarking.
Beyond organics and biodynamics, expect water to become the next blazing
issue (We began talking about it awhile ago: sfgate.com/ZJAN). In
California and elsewhere, there won't be enough of it. Because vines need
relatively little compared to, say, spinach, the next question is: How
much less can we be using?
And after a decade of synthetic corks (hopefully left behind in the
Aughts) and screwcaps (here to stay, happily) the next packing revolution
will be in the bottle itself. Not just by using plastic bottles or
bag-in-boxes, but by using lighter and less glass. It's already happening.
3. Brands get serious. With a few exceptions, critter labels and their
x-treme offspring are being shuffled off to history. Their replacements -
attitude labels (Wily Jack, anyone?) - are a mixed bag. On the label, at
least, classy is back; look no further than BevMo's breakout hit Challis
Lane. Returning to that rising tide of millennials, the keyword is
authenticity. They want it. Now more than ever, there are labels under $20
(the new magic price point) that deliver by looking serious but not dull.
4. The rise of pro-am reviewing. Forget blogs. With social media throwing
its weight around (see my thoughts last year on Twitter: sfgate.com/ZJAO)
whose reviews will really move markets?
Journalism has been gnashing out the balance of professional and amateur
realms for years. Wine criticism is headed for the same. Anyone can hand
out an 88 or 92, but if you think your number flood will replace Robert
Parker's, you need to suck back a few more RP94s. Yet the Web is
increasingly providing ways to mesh these realms - notably with sites like
Cellartracker, which I'll be circling back to soon. That's enormously
powerful.
5. Less is more. Less alcohol (the numbers are already leveling off), less
wood flavors, less tinkering. Some of this is a change in taste: more
clear fruit than wood, brighter flavors that go with dinner, wines from
around the world that fit this bill.
But there's another lesson to be drawn from the recession: Simple
winemaking is also less expensive. And all caveats aside about denting the
brand - less expensive means more wine sold.

Jon Bonné is The Chronicle's wine editor.

A True Wine Experience

While reading articles and tasting different varietals has certainly provided an avenue to further my knowledge of wine, I recently decided to explore another path for additional education and experience something that many of us often contemplate, yet rarely do.

This past July, I purchased a 50-50 blend of juice and concentrate of Trebbiano grapes, along with the other equipment and supplies necessary to produce wine. Although previously working at a winery, the experiences in the winery were limited to the basic procedures such as picking grapes and ensuring the packaged bottles were properly labeled but did not include any of the science behind it.

With my equipment and “grapes”, I began the experiment and followed a recipe found in one of the numerous home wine making books I had read. After several steps of sanitizing, adding yeasts, allowing for primary and secondary fermentation, racking, frequent additions of potassium metabisulfite and bottling… I had a finished product that I was excited to pour for my friends.

After bottling and a short aging period, I poured tastes for those brave souls willing to try my wine (pictured to the left is a photo of the bottling process). Although Parker may not give it a recommendation, the Trebbiano has great clarity, interesting nose and tastes like a very drinkable crisp table wine. Now I have 24 bottles to share throughout the upcoming months.

Cheers,
-Joe

"Unknown” AVA’s in the United States

As if the United States Department of the Treasury doesn’t have enough to manage and oversee, one of their responsibilities (along with the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) is to define an American Viticultural Area (AVA). We, as club managers, often refer to these AVA’s simply as larger classifications such as regions or states (hopefully not just countries) when educating members and staff about a particular wine. An American Viticultural Area is a designated wine grape-growing region in the United States that is distinguishable by geographic features, such as soil characteristics and weather trends. AVAs with which the public is most familiar include the famed Napa and Russian River Valleys in California, and the Willamette Valley AVA in Oregon. Few, however, are familiar with the lesser-known AVAs away from the American West Coast; for example, have you ever heard of the AVA called Lake Michigan Shore?


The AVA identified as Lake Michigan Shore is located in the Michigan’s well- established "farm belt “in the Southwestern part of the state. With the oldest vineyards dating back to 1867, the AVA is both the oldest modern commercial grape region in the state and the area responsible for more than half of the total state wine grape production. With such accreditation behind its name, I write this blog posting in an effort to raise awareness of the “unknown” AVA’s in the United States.

Now, you are probably reading this posting in your office and wondering why I am writing an article on our WS blog regarding unknown AVA’s and the Michigan wine industry. Well, the answer is quite simple. Prior to finding a career path within the private club industry, I spent the summer of 2005 as an intern at Tabor Hill Winery and Restaurant in Buchanan, Michigan (pictured above). This experience provided learning the basics of the wine industry, and opened my eyes to a world I was previously interested in, but know very little about.

Throughout the summer, I rotated between three tasting rooms, assisted with restaurant operations at the estate vineyard, worked various catering events, and even spent time in the vineyard and winery. With such a wide array of opportunities with which Tabor Hill provided me, I gained a great deal of invaluable knowledge that has proven extremely helpful in my career today. Looking back at the experience, one of the lessons I learned was this: We have all come to appreciate a great, memorable bottle of vintage first growth Bordeaux, on that special occasion. On that note, I propose this challenge: Forget those special-occasion, Paker-rated, Wine Spectator-recognized wines, and pick up a bottle of something less familiar. Whether it’s drinking a wine from an “unknown” producer/region, or ordering an unfamiliar glass, be open to the idea of trying something new. It is sometimes those unexpected experiences that make us better appreciate wine and often provide eye- opening experiences that we’ll always remember. Am I suggesting that we remove all of the French and Californian wines from our lists? Absolutely not. But, having a dessert wine from lesser -known AVAs such as the Niagara Peninsula on your club’s list is a great way to spark interest in wine amongst your membership. You never know when Spectator or Enthusiast will endorse an “unknown” AVA, which would ultimately result in a mass exodus of the general public to quickly purchase wines as recommended. Does anyone remember what has happened with Spanish Rioja or South African Malbec in the past ten years?

If you have a moment, browse the website for Tabor Hill Winery and Restaurant. www.taborhill.com And if you are ever able to try “Red Arrow Red” … it comes strongly recommended! You can also learn more about Lake Michigan Shore AVA and other information regarding the wine industry in Michigan by visiting www.michiganwines.com .

On a side note… I would like to thank Paul Landeck, Cathy Fielding and Kenny Petersen at Tabor Hill for allowing the opportunity for a college kid (yours truly) to join the operation and not only learn about the wine industry, but in doing so, establishing a passion for wine.

Cheers,
- Joe

New World vs. Old World, (again)

Yet again, I have tasted a wine, made from the grape known for its stellar standing in Burgundy that has really forced the re-occurrence of a haunting question for me. The grape we know; Pinot Noir. The query raised; Old World (Burgundy) vs. New, in this case (Oregon, USA).
There is a tendency among New World USA Winemakers to jettison from one operation to the next. A sweeping generalization, admittedly, but definitely the case if and when we make the comparison to French winemakers. This wanderlust is perhaps not a remarkable character trait in winemaking as a vocation. In France, Vineyards are owned by families and the Chateau’s within are prideful homes. Winemakers boast a considerable more lengthy tenure across the pond, at their respective (dare I say), “jobs”. In Burgundy, grapes and vineyards are traced back 2,000 or more years, and there are those famous stories of the Roman Empire’s collapse, and the Church’s gobbling of Vineyards, right down the highway North to South through Burgundy. With that same tenure and history, comes a perceived (and I feel, actual) benefit to Old World wines in the form of knowing which grapes grow best in these areas, and further, which of these areas will produce the highest quality therein. So, the challenge placed on these newer regions is apparent: a substantial gap in time, ergo some serious catching up to do.
Enter in to the tragedy (or comedy) the variable I’ll call “winemaker influence”. New World Wine makers and vineyards rely on technology and methods to ensure that the grapes, which have not yet wholly proved themselves as inherently successful to that specific region, will produce a solid and consistently quaffable product. Now I must be fair, and put my ancestry (and general preference for French Wine) aside and diplomatically include the fact that with Old World Chateaus and the producers within, there is a tendency to fall complacent with their technique. You know that tacky phrase: “if it isn’t broke why fix it”. In France, you may get some of that both in the glass, as well as in the attitude of the winemaker. However, we do know that a wider market and some competition keeps the more progressive-minded “old guard” on their toes and sometimes the result is a wonderful combination of history and proven aptitude with open-minded methodology and experimentation. So in all of this, it is an amazingly refreshing experience, and one that births dramatic, and truth-seeking judgments (for me); when a New World Wine stands up to its proven Old World, shadow-creating title holder.
I recently had the pleasure of listening to a New World wine maker explain to me that the new irrigation techniques, the new oak barrels used for aging, the harvesting calculation philosophy (and timing), along with certain “new” natural additives used in the making of New World wines; are some of the most famously guarded secrets among winemakers. He romantically described them to me like a scene from a James Bond movie. Spies, rumors, binoculars, faux employees, investigations—the whole lot!
As if the craft itself isn’t enough to impress us—then there is suspense. Let’s just say that there is plenty to enjoy from several New World wines; o.k. we knew as much. For me, it is rare to find a New World “burgundy clone” that stands up to the top dogs of the Cote d’Or or Nuits; but just that occurrence recently took place.
OK, OK, so the contender responsible for these questions raised, for me, should be introduced……

Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir (Carlton, Oregon), vintage 2007, $55
I wont bore you with my version of tasting notes….but I was floored. A definite exercise and lesson in Pinot-Nuance, and just “over the top” vibrancy, balance with a stunning finish. A showstopper. Two days prior, I had the pleasure of drinking a Volnay from a reputable producer, and this Pinot from Carlton left the Volnay in its turbulent wake. A New World Pinot Noir that matches technology with a vision. I have heard it said that “a vision without execution is only a daydream”---well this was a vision executed. I cannot testify to how much espionage was involved in the making of this gem—but some questions are better left unanswered!
Happy Sipping.
-Kevin

Chenin Blanc and Pickup Trucks in South Africa

There is a term, “Bakkie” (pronounced “Bucky”) among South Africans, especially in the southwest portion of the country, for what we know as a pickup truck. Around the Southwest Region of the country, (South Africa’s “wine country”), many of these Bakkie’s can be seen traveling in and out of the various wineries that are found in Walker Bay, Stellanbosch and Constantia, to name just a few. In one of those Bakkies you may find Ken Forrester, a prime winemaker, whose historic farm (winery) sits just outside of Stellanbosch.

Ken Forrester is a proponent, grower and avid fan of one South Africa’s most widely planted varietals, Chenin Blanc. It is amusingly true, despite the rhythmically repetitious and recent “great-press” surrounding South African Cabernet Sauvignons, Pinotage, and Merlot, that 85% of the grapes grown in South Africa produce white wines. For now we’ll put Mr. Forrester aside, on the pedestal for which he belongs.

Chenin Blanc is a grape that produces a wide variety of stylistically unique wines. It would be commonplace to taste four different Chenin Blanc’s side by side to only be left scratching your head in confusion. Those hypothetical four could possibly capture and span the spectrum of; dry, off-dry, even demi-sec, sparkling and downright dessert worthy. Chenin Blanc in the Loire, (Vouvray) is as broadly varied as in South Africa, but generally yields a more acidic, green apple variation when compared. South African Chenin Blanc or “Steen” as the countries population refers to it, is generally a bit more opulent with exhibitions of honey-melon, peaches, and lightly buttered toast. Interestingly more still, Chenin Blanc has overtaken Beaujolais as the calendar years first production of noteworthy wine. “Early Chenin” Vintage Bottling as it is referred, can hit the shelves as early as May or June.

I wonder if the Dutch were aware of the enormous possibility and eminence that the land and its terroir, would offer to future Chenin Blanc growers, when they settled in South Africa’s Cape Town region during the mid- 17^th century? Perhaps not. It is this later than most start to South Africas wine scene emergence that gives it its quirky, widespread wine world profile and panache. In the chronological and wine-historical grand scheme, I think South Africa’s wine region resembles the young, budding actor or actress. You know; plenty of talent and even some worthy experience under the belt, versatile by default and necessity, but very, very good nonetheless.

I have been asked from time to time: “if your days on earth were limited, which of the many possible wines and or varietals would you surround yourself with for those last breathing days”?? These hypothetical conversations among wine friends while fun, unfortunately almost always contain caveats such as “you can only choose one” –or- “you can’t change your mind after you decide”. When I am faced with this, my “go to” answer is generally France’s Burgundy…..ahh the sumptuousness of Burgundian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, so on ad so forth. However- when I do settle back and revisit wines such as Chenin Blanc from South Africa, I am reminded that those same hypothetical questions can be even more difficult than at first glance. Once and awhile taking a step back and rediscovering grapes like Chenin Blanc is a good thing. Whether its top notch Vouvray from the Loire, or Steen from Strellanbosch, this is truly a noble grape that is too often forgotten on your everyday clubs wine list. This coming from a true lover of all things Burgundy; I test thee to re-learn and explore your ABC’s! That is Anything But Chardonnay. Even if only for a little time. Having done so may make retuning to those more well known and more frequented roads, that much more agreeable.

Worthy Chenin Blanc matches high acidity with decent viscosity. Ripe quince and melon meet crisp tartness and ‘under the radar’ length. It would be difficult to find a particular wine that meets food with more grace and a more open mind to those more dangerous pairings like the ginger in Asian cuisine, or those impossible vinaigrettes. South African Chenin Blanc, made by the likes of Mr. Forrester can be expensive, but are definitely affordable on the whole. Bring a taste to your especially devoted Chardonnay or even Sauvignon Blanc drinker and see just what occurs. My guess is that they will be, even if only for the interim, converted.

www.kenforresterwines.com

Hope Club Roundtable Results

Here are the results of a survey taken at the last New England Club Managers Association Wine Society Roundtable Discussion at the Hope Club in Providence, Rhode Island:

Hat’s Off to those Managers who participated in the roundtable and the survey as well! Many Thanks,

-Kevin

· The average number of Red Wines poured ‘by the glass’ at any given time on your full-time wine list: 7

· The average number of White Wines poured ‘by the glass’ at any given time on your full-time wine list: 8

· The average number of Sparkling Wines / Champagne poured ‘by the glass’ at any given time on your full-time wine list: 2

· The average overall size of the entire wine list, of the clubs that participated:

60 bottles

· [question] What percentage of your clubs wine list is made up of wines from ‘New World’ regions: 58%

· [question] What percentage of your clubs wine list is made up of wines from ‘Old World’ regions: 42%

· What is the most expensive ‘glass pour’ on your clubs wine list:

$14.25 average among participating clubs

· [question] What is your clubs ‘target’ wine cost?

38% average among participating clubs

· The majority of clubs participating in the survey, format their wine list

By Varietal, rather than by region, price or by other means.

• The average annual wine sales of the participating clubs was: $166K
• The majority of participating clubs reported that they do market their wines aggressively using such vehicles as: nightly food pairings, wine displays, special pricing models for certain wines, and word of mouth through staff presentation.
• Percentage of participating clubs who report using Vac-u-Vin (or similar) systems to help extend the shelf life of “opened” wine: 66%

As a Chapter, Eric Gregory reminds us it is never too early to begin planning for the IWS Wine Auction!

Has your chapter been successful at gathering donations for the IWS Wine Auction? Here are a few tips which may help you donate a stronger lot for next year:

-Every chapter needs a "Championeer". If you are the chapter rep - then this should be you! You will need to be the one to gather your team, set your objectives, and devise the plan to make it happen. Be sure to check the shipping guidelines on the IWS website before you begin your collection efforts.

-Gathering your team. Trying to gather all of the donations yourself can be a pretty lofty and tiring task. Getting at least 3 to 4 team members or fellow IWS members to assist you is critical. Depending on the size of your chapter, you may need more. Set up a conference call to set your objectives and discuss ideas on how your chapter can reach its goal. These team members should also be instrumental in helping you gather donations by picking up from Clubs in their area, or by writing donation request letters to wineries & distributors. You will also need to decide who has the storage capacity to store the donations until they are ready to be shipped.

-Setting your goal. Depending on the size of your chapter, a wholesale dollar amount should be established for what you should be able to bring in. Although competing for the Buckey award is fun and competitive, making a solid contribution to the Club Foundation based on the size of your chapter you be the goal.

-Gathering donations. The following are examples of ways that may be used to gather donations from your chapter.

Sending letters to the wineries on your Wine List. Expressing that in addition to donating to a good cause and supporting you as an account, their donation will be bid on by hundreds of Club Managers from across the country. In my experience, you can expect between a 25 - 40% return rate.

Encouraging chapter members to bring donations to chapter events. E-mail blasts, phone calls or placing a request on the chapter meeting invitation will encourage your chapter members to bring their donation with them to the next chapter education or event.

Establish a pick up system. Using your team, all Clubs in your chapter who have not donated should be phoned and told that a rep will be in their area on a particular day to pick up their donation. Dividing up the clubs in the chapter and assigning them to a member of the team can make your collection effort more organized.

-Recognize the efforts of your chapter members. Sending out an e-mail or letter to those who donated expressing your appreciation for their support goes a long way towards future participation. If appropriate, mention how much your chapter donated to the Club Foundation, and if you were able to win an educational grant or award, ask your chapter's board if that money can be used for a fun wine-related event for your chapter!

Eric is currently the Clubhouse Manager at The Los Angeles Country Club. Of course, passionate about wine, Eric is holds a Board of Directors position with the CMAA International Wine Society. This is Eric's first ever BLOG Post, more to come!